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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'Power management on new engine' in the forum. 23 hours 45 minutes ago

Hi Lyle;
Cool, a new engine.

It appears to me that you're doing a pretty good job of breaking in your engine.
The following is the Continental protocol for breaking in an engine:

"7-2.4.1. Engine Break-In
CAUTION: High power ground operation resulting in cylinder and
oil temperatures exceeding normal operating limits can be
detrimental to cylinders, pistons, valves, and rings.
CAUTION: If Nickel-Carbide cylinders, follow the break-in
instructions in SB15-6.

The recommended break-in period for Continental Motors engines is 25 hours. Adhere to
the following instructions and the Engine Specifications and Operating Limits in the
primary Instructions for Continued Airworthiness (Section 1-1.1) applicable to the engine
model.

1. Conduct a normal engine start, ground run-up and take-off according to the AFM/
POH.

2. Monitor a) engine RPM, b) fuel flow and pressure (if equipped), c) oil pressure and
temperature, d) cylinder head temperature (if equipped), e) exhaust gas temperature
(if equipped), and f) turbine inlet temperature (if equipped) to verify the engine is
operating within the parameters specified in the primary Instructions for Continued
Airworthiness (Section 1-1.1).

3. Reduce the engine speed to climb power according to the AFM/POH instructions.
Maintain a shallow climb attitude to achieve optimum airspeed and cooling airflow.

4. At cruise altitude:
a. Maintain level flight cruise at 75% power with best power or richer mixture for
the first hour of operation.
Standard Practice Maintenance Manual 7-9
15 April 2016

Engine Operation
NOTE: Best power mixture setting is 100°-150°F (38°-66°C) rich of peak
exhaust gas temperature. Adjust engine controls or aircraft attitude to
ensure engine instrumentation operates within specifications.

b. For the second and subsequent hours of flight, alternate cruise power settings
between 65% and 75% power with appropriate best power mixture settings.
WARNING

Avoid long descents at high engine RPM to prevent undesirable
engine cooling. If power must be reduced for long periods,
adjust the propeller to minimum governing RPM to obtain
desired performance levels. If outside air temperature is
extremely cold, it may be desirable to increase drag to maintain
engine power without gaining excess airspeed. Do not permit
cylinder head temperature to drop below 300°F (149°C).

5. Descend at low cruise power settings. Avoid long descents or descents at cruise
power RPM with manifold pressure below 18 in. Hg. If necessary, reduce engine
RPM to the lower limit of the specified operating range to maintain sufficient
manifold pressure. Carefully monitor engine instrumentation to maintain levels
above the minimum specified cylinder head temperature and oil temperature.
6. Correct any discrepancies prior to releasing the aircraft for service."

By definition, a new engine is broken in when the oil consumption stabilizes. This usually takes place between 5 and 10 flight hours after 1st start. After that you can use any power settings you'd like.

According to the POH I have, 22 inches and 2200 rpm is around 64 percent power. Continental writes that the engine can be safely leaned to peak EGT when the power is below 65 percent power. So if your tachometer and manifold pressure gauge are correct you should be safe at that power setting; running at peak EGT (hottest combustion) shouldn't cause any problems at that power setting.

I have attached a file of a book titled "The Skylane Pilot's Companion." I believe you'll find some tidbits about engine operation that will be of value.

Steve

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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'New W&B' in the forum. yesterday

Hi John;
Yes, I would estimate that more Wt and Bal totals are done with full fuel than are done after emptying the fuel tanks, esp in the small airplane world.

Position the airplane so it's level fore and aft (deflating a nose tire and/or a nose strut is often the easiest way to do this; tire pressures can also aid in the lateral leveling. Get the weights on each tire (L main, R main, and nose). Then subtract the weight of full fuel minus the unusable fuel.

Full oil is part of the empty weight.

It's unusual for a 182 to have a CG that is very far aft; most have a fwd CG. In fact, sometimes the Fwd CG limit is exceeded with full fuel (LR tanks) and two hefty bodies up front.

Please fwd your new empty weight and CG; I'm always interested in this kind of data.
S

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JOHN QUIMBY replied to the topic 'New W&B' in the forum. yesterday

Steve - can an accurate W&B be done with full fuel and re-calculated W&B for empty on a 182? Like Robert we are doing an “extensive” upgrade and the shop is removing all the old gear and wires. I reinstalled the interior yesterday and they are doing a new W&B on Monday. I will get a picture of the pile of wire and racks and old gear - stormscope in the tail probably will change my CG since its so far aft!!

John
182TG

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JOHN QUIMBY replied to the topic 'AEROFLASH 14V VOLT POWER SUPPLY' in the forum. 2 days ago

Steve - very kind of you to check on that. I did a Google search a didn’t come up with them. I saw one of the members said he might have his old unit. I purchased the Whelen from spruce yesterday but I might source the used one since I’m hemorrhaging cash with the panel upgrade.

Thanks again on your thoughts on the yokes as well.

John

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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'Yokes reinstall aesthetic advice' in the forum. 2 days ago

They came back looking very nice.
I sort of like them without the pad, but believe the pad is there as a safety device to reduce injuries in the event of a sudden stop.

Can you get a good set of cushions, or restore your cushions?? If you can, in spite of my personal preference for the clean design, I recommend that you re install the cushions.

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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'AEROFLASH 14V VOLT POWER SUPPLY' in the forum. 2 days ago

As I understand this, you have removed the SkyBeacon and want a power supply to restore the operation of you original Aero Flash strobe sys.
I didn't contact the folks at FletchAir for confirmation but it appears they have one for sale:

www.fletchair.com/catalog/product_info.p...5_30&products_id=130

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JOHN QUIMBY replied to the topic 'AEROFLASH 14V VOLT POWER SUPPLY' in the forum. 2 days ago

Tom - shoot me a text with your thoughts on price/timing. 513-218-0512. Thanks

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Tom Clifford replied to the topic 'AEROFLASH 14V VOLT POWER SUPPLY' in the forum. 2 days ago

I believe I have a power supply. I replaced mine. old one working. I would certainly sell it to you. 182q. 12v

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JOHN QUIMBY created a new topic ' Yokes reinstall aesthetic advice' in the forum. 3 days ago

Happy Thanksgiving (post #2 today)

I'm 95% done with my Avionics upgrade and part of the project I wanted to clean up my pitted yokes. They just came back from being bead blasted and powder coated. I'm very pleased with how they look {see pictures}, As part of the project I had a second push to talk installed for co-pilot.

My question for the other 182 owners - reinstall with or without the plastic/rubber Cessna center trim? If no trim, should I put a logo stencil or sticker or emblem on to break up the black or leave it as is?

Thanks for any advice.

Regards,
John
182TG

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JOHN QUIMBY created a new topic ' AEROFLASH 14V VOLT POWER SUPPLY' in the forum. 3 days ago

Happy Thanksgiving!!
I need some advice. I'm reinstalling my old Nav/Strobe as part of Transponder upgrade. I previously installed a SkyBeacon and removed the AeroFlash power supply. When the shop went to reinstall the old power supply they said it was "INOP" - I searched and found the replacement on Spruce for $138 but the part number didn't appear on their website. I called and they explained the old part AeroFlash part wasn't available but the replacement Whelen was for $700!!! I looked around and it appears the only ones on e-bay are 28V models.

A friend suggested I go for the Whelen Orion. I wish that the LED light business would get the deregulation help that avionics seems to have gotten. There is no reason why this should cost $500+ when the experimental guys can buy something similar for $125.

www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/orion650series.php

Any thoughts or help is appreciated.

John
182TG

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JOHN QUIMBY created a new topic ' AEROFLASH 14V VOLT POWER SUPPLY' in the forum. 3 days ago

I need some advice. I'm reinstalling my old Nav/Strobe as part of Transponder upgrade. I previously installed a SkyBeacon and removed the AeroFlash power supply. When the shop went to reinstall the old power supply they said it was "INOP" - I searched and found the replacement on Spruce for $138 but the part number didn't appear on their website. I called and they explained the old part AeroFlash part wasn't available but the replacement Whelen was for $700!!! I looked around and it appears the only ones on e-bay are 28V models.

Any thoughts or help is appreciated.

John
182TG

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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'Starter solenoid' in the forum. 3 days ago

You can use the Sky Tec solenoid with one small post. Just make sure that the engine has a good electrical connection with the engine mount.
No reason you can't put the solenoid on the starter. It eliminates one additional large wire and two connections vs. putting it on the firewall.

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James Roberts replied to the topic 'Starter solenoid' in the forum. 5 days ago

This is a picture of close to what I have although it is not a picture of my starter. But it gives you a idea. My plane has a key switch with start and mag checks and off. Jim

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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'Starter solenoid' in the forum. 6 days ago

I'm not sure what you've got going there.
I know the early airplanes had a pull T handle that engaged the clutch then closed the contact to power the starter.
I'm trying to envision how you would have the solenoid attached to the starter and I can't get my mind around it.
Do you have a picture?
Thanks
Steve

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Lyle Mann created a new topic ' Power management on new engine' in the forum. 6 days ago

We just installed a 0 time, remanufactured 0-470L on our 182A. Per the shop that installed the engine I have been breaking it in at 23 squared at 100 ROP. Every 15 minutes I have been changing the power settings. They said to bring it back in 25 hours for a check up and oil change. How many hours should I fly it like this? Does anyone have good input as to good power settings after break in? My old engine I flew at 22 squared, (usually couldn’t get 22 MP), LOP if I could get it. I would like to fly it for maximum engine life as opposed to fastest cruise. Would welcome any advice.

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James Roberts replied to the topic 'Starter solenoid' in the forum. 6 days ago

Thx Steve, so you think it's fine to attach the solenoid to the starter? I was able to find a Sky-Tec solenoid but it had one small post and two large. Will I be able to use it? Thx again, Jim

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STEVE ELLS replied to the topic 'Starter solenoid' in the forum. 7 days ago

Good morning;
I am surprised that you keep "blowing" the solenoid. Solenoids do fail but it's usually because the big contact points inside the housing get rough and eroded; then one day the solenoid doesn't release when the key is moved from start. This can cause big problems.
But it doesn't sound like that's what you're describing.

I suggest that you first check to see that there is a good ground path between the engine and the engine mount. This usually looks like a large wire with terminals on both ends or a woven strap with terminals on both ends.

I recommend that you install an aftermarket FAA approved starter solenoid such as the STS-S12 available from any aircraft parts house such as Aircraft Spruce ( www.aircraftspruce.com ).
These solenoids are better than other solenoid options.

The Sky Tec solenoids look different from the original solenoid in that there are two big posts and TWO small posts. The original one had two big posts and one small post. In this configuration, one end of the internal windings that closed the large contacts is grounded to the solenoid case.

The new solenoid (with two small contacts) will require that one of the small contacts be connected to a good electrical ground.

Another would be to completely replace the starter with a much improved starter from Sky-Tec. The Sky Tec Conversion kit KC -ST2.

Lastly, I can't remember anything that addresses moving the solenoid to the firewall, but in my mind, this would be a minor alteration.

Let me know what you decide.
Steve

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James Roberts created a new topic ' Starter solenoid' in the forum. 7 days ago

I've a 1966 model 172G with the 300D engine. The solenoid is on the starter. I mean bolted to it. I keep blowing the solenoid and replacing it where it blows out. I get one from Aircraft Spruce called the Lamar. There was a post there where someone said that Lamar said not to bolt to the starter but put it on the firewall and that will fix the problem. After calling them they had nothing that gave directions to do this So does anyone know about this. Do you have a procedure for this? Thanks in advance! Jim

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